Cause 1

Door Latch

The door latch assembly might be defective. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, replace it.

Cause 2

Door Lock

The door lock assembly might be defective. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged, replace it.

Cause 3

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer door will not latch properly. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, use a multimeter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

Cause 1

Rear Drum with Bearing

The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can become very noisy. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.

Cause 2

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the washer is noisy during the spin cycle or is leaking from the bottom of the tub near the transmission, the tub seal and bearing are likely defective. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing the outer tub and bearing at the same time.

Cause 3

Tub Bearing

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together.

Cause 1

Water Inlet Valve

During the rinse cycle, the water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the wash tub. If the water inlet valve fails, the washer will continue waiting for the water to enter the washer, causing it to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the water inlet valve is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 2

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

Cause 3

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer may stop mid-cycle. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 1

Drive Belt

Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

Cause 2

Motor Coupling

The motor coupling connects the motor to the washing machine transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

Cause 3

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 1

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The water pressure to the water inlet valve might be too low. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water inlet valve does not get enough pressure, the valve may not close fully after the power is shut off. As a result, water can leak into the washer and cause it to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is sufficient.

Cause 2

Pressure Switch

The pressure switch shuts off power to the water inlet valve when the proper water level is reached. If the pressure switch fails, the water inlet valve will continue to fill the washer tub with water, causing the washer to overflow. Before replacing the pressure switch, check the air tube to the pressure switch to ensure that it is clear of debris and is not leaking.

Cause 3

Water Inlet Valve

Try shutting off power to the washer. If the washer still overflows even when it is not getting power, this indicates that the water inlet valve is defective. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it.

Cause 1

Motor Coupling

The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

Cause 2

Drive Block or Bell

The drive block connects the washer transmission to the agitator. If the drive block is worn out, the transmission shaft will still move back and forth, but the agitator will only move slightly or will not move at all. Inspect the drive block for damage. If the drive block is worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace it.

Cause 3

Agitator Repair Kit

If the washer won't agitate, replacing the agitator repair kit may solve the problem. The kit contains the agitator components that are most likely to wear out and/or fail. If any of the parts are worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace the kit.

Cause 1

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 2

Drive Belt

Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

Cause 3

Motor Coupling

The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

Cause 1

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not drain. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 2

Clogged Pump or Hoser

Sometimes, socks and other small articles of clothing can get into the drain system and clog the pump hose or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump and check for any obstructions.

Cause 3

Drain Pump

Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump.

Cause 1

Line Fuse

The line fuse blows if the washer circuits are overloaded. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the line fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. Check for shorted out components such as the wires, motor, or drain pump. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2

Timer

The timer is frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the timer, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. To determine if the timer is defective, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multimeter to test the timer for continuity.

Cause 3

Line Fuse

The line fuse blows if the washer circuits are overloaded. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the line fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. Check for shorted out components such as the wires, motor, or drain pump. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 1

Suspension Spring

One or more of the suspension springs might be broken. The suspension springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a suspension spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the suspension springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a suspension spring is broken, replace it.

Cause 2

Suspension Rod

One or more of the suspension rods might be broken. The suspension rods help to dampen the movement of the washer tub. If one or more of the suspension rods are broken, the washer will vibrate or shake. To determine if the suspension rods are at fault, check the rods to determine if any of them are broken. If a suspension rod is broken, replace it.

Cause 3

Shock Absorber

One or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out. The shock absorbers dampen the vibration of the washer tub. If one or more of the shock absorbers are worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure.

Cause 1

Tub Seal

The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. For this reason, if the tub seal is leaking water, replace both the tub seal and the tub bearings. Be aware that this is a complicated repair and will require disassembling most of the washer.

Cause 2

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. For this reason, if the tub seal is leaking water, replace both the tub seal and the tub bearings. Be aware that this is a complicated repair and will require disassembling most of the washer.

Cause 3

Drain Pump

The drain pump pumps water out the drain hose. If the drain pump is cracked or damaged, or if the bearings are worn out, the drain pump may leak water. The drain pump is not repairable—if the pump is leaking water, replace it.

Cause 1

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home water pressure might be too low. The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Check the water pressure to the valve to determine if it is sufficient.

Cause 2

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the wash may fill slowly or not fill at all. The water inlet valve requires sufficient water pressure to function properly. First, check the water pressure to determine that it is adequate. If the water pressure is adequate, try cleaning the screens inside the water inlet valve hose connection ports. If the washer still fills slowly, replace the water inlet valve.